Download Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave AudioBook Free
With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The Whale Warriors, recounts his impressive journey of discovery - of surfing, an completely new problem; of the ocean's beauty and electric power; of the bizarre browse subculture; of love; and, the majority of all, of how to seek experience while crafting a significant life. Having resolved to understand a big - hollow influx - that is, to visit from kook (surfese for starter) to shredder-in a single year, Heller trips from Southern California down the shoreline of Mexico in the company of his sweetheart and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and knowledge of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he goes to. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds pleasure in both love and surfing, he affords listeners vivid information into this amazing world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and think about. Exhilarating, compelling, and moving, Kook is a love report between a guy and his surfboard, a guy and his sweetheart, a not-so-old man and the ocean.
